Hydraulic Rehab Kit (thru '62)

• (x1) - Master Cylinder  - 7/8" 
• (x1) - Improved cut slave cylinder - 7/8"
• (x2) - Front Brake Hoses & washers (drum brakes)  OR  Front Brake Hoses & washer (disc brake)  -  [select in drop down menu]
• (x1) - Rear Brake Hose, copper washer included
• (x2) - Front Right Wheel Cylinders
• (x2) - Front Left Wheel Cylinders
• (x2) - Rear Wheel Cylinders (early type)  OR  Rear Wheel Cylinders (late type), boots included  -  [select in drop down menu]

We’ve found from experience that the most important part of a British car to maintain is the hydraulic system. A clutch and good brakes are obviously essential, and so everything has to be optimized or you could loose one or both crucial systems. Hydraulic leaks and failures are the number one problem area on all classic British cars. Here’s a kit to help you make everything last.

Years ago, I would rebuild my leaking cylinders. I would meticulously hone the bores and replace the rubber parts. Inevitability, leaks would re-appear in months not years and I would have to start over, and once more bleed everything to get the pedals functioning properly. I can’t think of anything more frustrating than having to do the same hydraulic job twice with less than a year between jobs.

Next I spent a lot of money having brass sleeves installed, to protect the bores from pitting. But I never found that there was a good return on that investment, because even my sleeved masters would eventually start leaking on my shoes sooner than I would have liked!

So now we exclusively use new parts, this has proven most cost effective. We have put together a kit of all the pieces you will need to replace everything. These are the best parts we have been able to find, and the same parts we use on all our customer cars.

We have a great track record with this kit-you will too. Make sure to change everything all at once, because if any one cylinder is leaking in your system, the others are not far behind. Clutch slaves are notorious for leaking, and sometimes it seems like we are changing them daily! So if you are doing all your wheel cylinders, make certain to thoroughly inspect your slave too!

Remember, the issue with any classic car hydraulic system is moisture. Because the caps are all vented, atmospheric air is in your system and so is the moisture that comes with it. So no matter what parts you use, be sure to change your hydraulic fluid no more than every two years. That will get the moisture out and restart the clock. Your parts will last longer.

We have tried DOT 5 silicone fluid, which is particularly nice because it won’t eat up the paint on your car if you have any leaks. We’ve seen a few cars with paint damage all the way down the rocker panel because of master cylinder leaks, and silicone prevents paint damage. The problem with silicone is that it makes the pedal a bit spongier, which I don’t like in a car with so many direct inputs. As such, we use Castrol LMA dot 3 fluid, and thats what we recommend.

Note: The bleeder screw on the slave can sometimes come from the supplier with the bleeder screw in the forward-facing hole on the slave. This is done for shipping purposes, but is incorrect for installation, as the bleeder needs to be in the top hole to allow the air to be bled from the clutch hydraulic system properly! We generally try to swap it to the correct hole before we ship it, but sometimes we don't catch it. See the photo of the slave properly installed with the bleed screw facing upward for easy bleeding.